Essential Items for any camping excursion.
15 Most Common Home Security Weak Points
Foxfire Armory focuses exclusively on performing security assessments for residential/private residences. These are the fifteen most common problems that we find when conducting home security assessments, along with some possible solutions for remedying these problems.
#1 – Inexpensive Lock Hardware Used on Exterior Doors
Builders typically use inexpensive lock hardware when they build a home, sometimes even at homes which cost millions of dollars. Most inexpensive lock hardware made with cheap materials, which can easily be forced open or otherwise compromised by a potential intruder. These inexpensive locks use traditional pin tumbler lock cylinders, which can be “picked” or “bumped” open by a potential intruder.
Solution: Replace existing locksets on all exterior doors with heavy-duty lock hardware from a reputable manufacturer. We recommend the use of ANSI Grade 2 locks at a minimum, with the use of ANSI Grade 1 locks preferred. For the highest security, the use of high-security lock cylinders (such ASSA or Medeco) help reduce the risk of picking, bumping and unauthorized duplication of keys. Many residential handlesets come with only a deadbolt, but for added security, a lock set with both a high-security cylinder and a high-security deadbolt lock is preferred.
#2 – Inadequate Reinforcement of Door Frames
One of the most common and easy ways for an intruder to gain entry to a home is to kick-in the exterior doors. The reason this is so easy is due to inadequate support provided by standard door frames and cheap lockset. Often, the bolt and/or latch enters a wood frame that provides a 1/4 inch or less of support for the door bolt or latch. A swift forceful quick kick to the door near the lock set provides enough force to split the wooden door frame, allowing the door to be easily opened.
Solution: Install heavy-duty strike plates in conjunction with minimum 2 1/2 inch wood screws on all exterior door frames. Use longer strike plates with a greater surface area that permits the use of more mounting screws. Fasten strike plates with longer screws, we recommend minimum 2 1/2 inch, that extend into the wall stud (2×4) next to the door rather than just into the door frame itself. For added security, consider using door and frame reinforcement kits, such as the StrikeMaster II Pro or Door Armor MAX.
#3 – Exposed Hinges on Out-Swinging Doors
Some homes have out-swinging doors, which leaves hinges that are exposed on the outside of the door. To open the door from the outside, an intruder simply needs to remove the hinge pins, allowing the door to pulled out of the door frame.
Solution: Security studs added to all the hinges on out-swinging doors will prevent someone from removing the door even with the pins removed. Commercially-made security studs can be purchased, or studs can be homemade ( For homemade studs, 1/2 inch round metal stock is recommended, but 3/16 inch at a minimum. For best results cut 3x – 2-inch pieces with an angle grinder or hack saw. Drill the proper hole size through the center of each hinge on both sides making sure the holes line up correctly. You can also place these above/below the hinges if you choose, but through the hinge is more secure. Once your holes are drilled and pieces cut you can now install your studs. [Professional installation is recommended] ).
#4 – Poor Locking Hardware on Windows and Sliding Doors
The standard factory-supplied lock hardware on many residential windows and sliding doors is of very poor quality, allowing the window or door to be easily forced open or lifted from its tracks. Casement windows and other non-sliding types usually don’t have the same issues, but can still be broken to gain entry.
Solution: Providing supplementary locking devices on sliding doors and sliding windows helps not only to deter but to slow speed of access. These devices are available in a wide variety of different types and are sold online and at larger home improvement stores, they can also be homemade from wood or metal.
#5 – Unprotected Glass Used In Vulnerable Locations
Exterior glass is used at nearly every residence. Some homes have only a few exterior glass doors and windows, while at other homes glass makes up a significant portion of the exterior wall. While all glass is a potential entry point for a burglar, certain glass can especially vulnerable. This glass includes Glass panes within doors or beside doors. These windows can be broken, allowing the burglar to reach inside to unlock the door. Glass windows located at grade level in concealed locations. These windows can be broken and allow the burglar to enter unobserved. Glass windows located in window wells ( Egress Windows ) that are below grade. These windows allow a burglar to crawl into the window well, break a window, and enter unobserved.
Solution: Installing Window Security Film on windows that are in particularly vulnerable locations is a great option. While an intruder can shatter the glass, the security window film keeps the glass shards together, making entry through the window opening much more difficult. Security Film can also slow entry by requiring more time to break and remove the glass.
#6 – Unlocked Doors and Windows ( Simple I Know )
Surprisingly a number of home, exterior doors and windows are left unlocked, even at times when the homeowner is away. Often, homeowners feel leaving second-floor windows open is safe because of the height that these windows are from the ground. The reality is burglars have no trouble at all gaining access to windows that are located two, three, or even four floors above ground. Some homeowners even make things easy for the burglar by leaving an unsecured ladder somewhere on the property, this includes garages.
Solution: All exterior doors and windows should be kept locked at all times at night, when away from the home, and even when in a basement or backyard. If certain windows must be kept open for ventilation purposes, consider the use of alarm window screens connected to the home’s intrusion alarm system or the use of two magnets. One for the closed position and one for the open position. This way if the window is pushed open the alarm will sound. Likewise, the screen alarms cause the alarm to activate when the screen is cut or removed. Alarm window screens are custom-made for each window and are available from most companies that sell and install alarm systems.
#7 – Spare Door Key Left Hidden Outside
In this day and age, this is just a big mistake. Many people continue to leave a spare key to an exterior door “hidden” somewhere outside the home. Keys are commonly left under a doormat, beneath a flower pot, or hidden in “concealed” location, despite the fact that nearly everyone knows to look for keys in these locations. No matter how clever your hiding place seems to be, burglars have a way of finding it.
Solution: The practice of hiding a spare house key outside or even your in your garage should be stopped at all costs. Spare keys, if needed, should be left with a trusted neighbor, family member, or friend who can bring them to you when you are locked out.
#8 – Shrubbery and Trees Block View of Home From The Street
In many cases, the trees and shrubbery are overgrown and block the view of the house from the street and neighboring homes. This creates a condition where burglars can break into the home unobserved.
Solution: We recommend that recognized Crime Prevention Through Environmental Design (CPTED) principals be used when installing and maintaining landscaping at the home. These principals suggest that clear sight lines be maintained between the home and the street to discourage criminal activity. To achieve this, it is recommended that shrubs and other ground cover be trimmed to no higher than three feet off of the ground and that the bottom of tree canopies be pruned so that they are at least six feet off of the ground.
#9 – Home has an Alarm System Installed BUT is Not Used
Sadly there are a high number of cases where an alarm system is installed at the home, but the homeowners have stopped using it. This often happens due to high monthly costs or the fear of false alarms. Even at homes where alarm systems are being used, homeowners often fail to arm the system when they leave for only a short period, such as when running an errand.
Solution: We recommend that the home’s alarm system be armed at all times when the home is unoccupied, even for very short periods of time. The alarm should also be armed to home mode at all times when home if possible. Most burglaries are committed in under ten minutes, and burglars often watch homes and make an entry just after the resident leaves. If the intrusion alarm system is difficult to use or causes false alarms, a qualified alarm company should be hired to upgrade the system and/or make repairs so that the system is easy to use and isn’t prone to false alarms. False alarms are most often triggered by pets and most modern alarm systems have remedied these issues.
#10 – Problems With Older Alarm Systems that Use Telephone Lines
Most older alarm systems use standard telephone lines to communicate with the monitoring station. In many cases where the homeowner has replaced their traditional telephone service with services offered by the cable company, the connection to the alarm system was not transferred as well. Recently cases the homeowners rely exclusively on their cell phone and have discontinued the use of wired telephone entirely, forgetting the alarm system depends on a wired connection.
Solution: Homeowners should understand the method that their alarm system uses to communicate to the alarm monitoring center. If the alarm system still relies on a telephone connection, homeowners should look into upgrading their system to an internet/cable-based system that will also work with no internet connection. For added security cameras should be used at all entry points of the house and tied to your alarms system.
#11 – Garage Door Vulnerability
This is probably one of the most overlooked security flaws all homes have. Residential garage doors are equipped with garage door openers, which have an emergency release mechanism that allowing the door to be opened in the case of power failure. In the majority of cases, the emergency release mechanism can be released from the outside of the garage using a coat hanger or other stiff wire. The coat hanger is inserted at the gap at the top of the door and is used to grab the cord connected to the emergency release. Once this cord is pulled, the door can be freely opened from the outside. This technique is often used by more sophisticated intruders as a method to gain entry to garages.
Solution: The simplest solution is to remove the pull cord and to tie back the emergency release lever using a plastic wire tie, but this is not recommended if you are in an area with frequent outages. There are commercially-made products that can be purchased to provide a shield around the emergency release lever, preventing it from being pulled except inside the garage. Likewise, homemade solutions such as removing just the T Style pull handle and leaving the bare rope also works well.
#12 – Older-Style Radio Controls Used With Garage Door Openers
For many years, simple radio controls were used in conjunction with garage door openers. These radio controls used a limited number of different code combinations, often 256 codes or less. An intruder with a compatible transmitter can manually try various code combinations until they find one that works. There are also homemade devices that can rapidly scan through all code combinations quickly, allowing the door to be opened in a manner of minutes. One way to tell if your radio controls are one of the older types is to look at your garage door transmitter (“clicker”). Transmitters used with the older systems usually had a “DIP” switch that allowed the code combination to be set. Opening the case of the transmitter will allow you to see if a DIP switch is present. If it is, you probably have one of the older systems.
Solution: Older radio controls should be replaced with newer radio controls that use “rolling code” technology. A rolling code system selects a new code from 4.3 billion possible combinations each time the system is used, making it nearly impossible for an intruder to ever match the code. New radio controls can usually be added to existing garage door openers without requiring that the opener itself be replaced.
#13 – Inexpensive Fire Safe to Store Valuables
Many homeowners are using an inexpensive fire safe purchased from big-box retailer to store their valuables. Safes of this type have been used to store hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of jewelry or investment grade precious metal. Safes of this type are A – not actually safes at all, but locked storage containers and B – they are specifically designed to withstand fire and water in the home, not a burglar.
Solution: A UL Listed burglary safe should be used to store jewelry and other valuables in the home. We also recommend getting a larger heavy safe that can be bolted to the floor or wall making it almost impossible for the burglar to haul the safe off for future entry.
#14 – No Secondary Line of Defense Within The Home
Most homes have no additional locked doors or barriers within the interior of the home. Once a burglar makes his way through an exterior door or window, he has free access to all areas of the home, including your family.
Solution: “Concentric Circles of Protection”, the premise of this is that security will be greatly improved using multiple layers of security, each of which must be penetrated in order for an intruder to gain access to the high-value assets within a home. For example, an additional layer of security could be created by installing a deadbolt lock on both the master bedroom door and the master bedroom closet. These doors would be kept closed and locked when the resident was away from the home. High-value assets such as jewelry could then be stored in the master bedroom closet. A burglar who was intent on stealing jewelry would have to make his way through three locked doors before achieving his goal. If the home had a safe, and this safe were installed within the master bedroom closet, this would create a fourth layer of security. These extra layers of security would also give a secure place to hide in the event someone forced their way into your home while it was occupied.
#15 – No Asset Inventory of The Home
Most homeowners fail to keep an inventory of the valuable assets in their home. Consequently, when they are burglarized, they find it difficult to provide the police and their insurance company with an accurate list of what was stolen. It is common to file a burglary report and then continue to find additional items missing weeks and even months after a burglary occurs.
Solution: A complete written inventory that lists all major assets (furnishings, antiques, equipment, jewelry, etc.) in the home should be created. This inventory could be used to provide information to law enforcement agencies and insurance companies in the event that assets were stolen or destroyed. The inventory should list assets by type and include make, model number, and serial number of each asset. A picture of each asset should also be taken. Pictures are particularly valuable to enable the identification of items such as jewelry or antiques which may not have a serial number and may be difficult to describe. Copies of the inventory and pictures should be stored in secure locations both on and off the premises. The inventory should be periodically reviewed and updated to add items that have been recently purchased and to delete any items that may have been disposed of. Companies now make software to help keep this list updated and easily maintainable from your computer or smartphone.
If you are interested in having a whole home assessment done Contact Us for a Quote!
IFAK literally stands for Individual First Aid Kit. There are many different types of first aid kits and they should be designed around your purpose, whether that be hiking, camping, hunting, fishing, or just driving to and from work. Acronyms have become all the rage these days so don’t let the fact that a first aid kit is just that, a first aid kit. First aid kits come in all different shapes and sizes ranging from the MFAK, Mini First Aid Kit all the way up to full EMS Trauma bags. For the purpose of this post, I will be focusing on various IFAKs.
Now I am not a Combat Medic nor am I in the medical field, so many of the these I will be referencing withing this post I HIGHLY advise getting the proper training before using. I am however someone who understands the importance of being prepared, which includes the necessary training needed to use the items that are contained in your first aid kit.
Now, while every IFAK should be purpose-built, there are a few things that should be in every IFAK no matter what. Those items are as follows.
Bag ( Obviously! )
Tourniquet ( CAT, RATS, or SWAT )
Pen Light / Small Flashlight
These are the starter items that are a must in every kit as these can be used for pretty much any scenario you could possibly encounter. Tourniquets are important as they are used to stop bleeding on the extremities. Clotting Aid is used for center mass wounds or wounds that aren’t able to be stopped with a tourniquet. Gloves help prevent contracting or passing infections and disease. Gauze and tape will be used to create bandages, which are vital in keeping the wounds from becoming infected and also help with bleeding. The Trauma Sheers are there to cut clothing, seat belts, or whatever else you may need to remove to gain access to the affected area.
Some of the more advanced items you can add to your kit, which I highly recommend gaining real training on before using on yourself or someone else is as follows.
PROFESSIONAL GRADE ADD-ONS
ARS Needle for Decompression
From here is where you can start to customize your kit based on the type of activity you are preparing for. Obviously, you could build a big kit that has everything I am about to mention, but for general first aid, these are the items I tend to keep in my personal IFAKs. Some items may be duplicated in these kits.
GENERAL ( Contained in all following kits )
Green Chem Light
PES Eye Shield
ETD Responder 6in
CPR Face Mask
Multiple Sized Bandaids
Wound Closure Strips
Anti Burn Cream
Wound Cleanser Bottle
Water Proof Wrap
Small Sharp Knife
Self Grip Wrap
Wound Irrigation Shield
Hyfin Vent Chest Seal
Small Needle Nose Pliers
Wound Irrigation Shield
Water Proof Wrap
Extra Burn Cream
Zip Lock Bags (Multi-Use Item)
These are just the basics and sometimes things will get added updated and /or removed from the kit. For me, I am usually not far enough away from civilization to need what I would refer to as an expanded kit. This would be a kit that contains enough materials for your entire party, along with items from every kit to account for every potential issue. Extended kits are great for backpacking trips and hunting trips that require you to be in more remote areas.
A few good resources if you are interested in purchasing a prebuilt IFAK kit or just looking for quality gear are below.
The Importance of Firearm Maintenance
The rough definition, “Firearm Maintenance – is a series of periodic preventive maintenance procedures aiming to ensure the proper function of a firearm, often with the use of a variety of specialized tools and chemical solutions.”
Just like brushing your teeth to prevent tooth decay and gum disease, firearm maintenance is there to help prevent, failures, rusting, and other common issues associated with firearm failures and breakdown. Firearm maintenance should become a routine and should be part of a regular schedule. Depending on usage and storage should determine your routine.
Being that a firearm is a relatively expensive investment, even the cheaper ones, a good foundational cleaning kit is a must for any gun owner. Below are the basics and a great place to start when looking to build your own cleaning kit.
Cleaning solvents help remove the carbon buildup from your barrel and other key parts, and they are best used in conjunction with cotton cleaning patches and swaps. Note that cleaning solvent and gun oils are not the same thing (these will be covered later). You start with solvents and finish with oils. You should only use a minimum amount of cleaning solvent as an excess solvent can negatively impact key firearm parts like the trigger, ejector, and recoil spring. There are many types of solvents out there these days, but a few that have stood the test of time are Hoppes & CLP. For most of my cleaning, I tend to use CLP as it works great to both clean and protect parts.
Gun oil is another necessary piece needed to effectively clean your firearm. Gun oil helps lubricate your firearm and protect it from the onset of rust and can help reduce friction on key parts. You’ll find all in one oils and solvents and lubrication specific oils. Which one to use is a matter of preference, but the most comprehensive solution is usually a combination of a cleaning solvent and separate gun oil.
A good cleaning rod or bore snake is an essential part of any cleaning kit. A good rod will come as a kit with interchangeable pieces, while a bore snake will be specific to your caliber and barrel length. Rods come in several different materials like aluminum, fiberglass, carbon fiber, and brass. Brass usually represents the strongest option although it will be heavier. It is ill-advised to use any other material as it may scratch your barrel. A bore snake will usually be a cloth material that is semi-absorbent and flexible that is sized specifically to your caliber. Both are a great option, but rods tend to lend themselves to be little more versatile.
A good quality bore brush (not to be confused with a bore snake) will help remove residue and keep your barrel as clean as possible. Brushes are caliber specific, to be used in conjunction with your rod, so for the best performance, use only approved caliber brushes in your firearm barrel. You can also find some universal brushes out there depending on how customized you want your kit to be. Brushes come in a variety of materials but again brass is the most popular material.
Another essential part of the cleaning process involves a patch holder. Patch holders are configured to fit a variety of barrels, but make sure the patch holder you select is approved for your chosen firearm caliber. Patch holders are usually made of brass, and they will attach to your cleaning rod just like a bore brush. An alternative to a patch holder is a cleaning jag that acts more like a pushing device for the cleaning patch. Jags are slightly less wide than the caliber barrel you’re cleaning, and you’ll need to get one specifically designed for each barrel you plan to clean.
Of all the items in your kit, make sure you stock up on patches. They are great for running solvent through your barrel, wiping down slide parts, and overall are a utility item to be used as you see fit, but since they are absorbent and also gather carbon, you can only use them once before they need discarding.
A silicone cloth is a pre-treated piece of cloth that is essentially dipped in a silicone solution. It is the perfect material for use as a wipe down cloth for the outside of the firearm. If you looking to get that little extra oil off and clean the exterior of the firearm, while helping to prevent rust this is a great final step to your cleaning process.
EXTRAS (NOTE: THESE AREN’T NECESSARY, BUT NICE TO HAVE)
The most seasoned firearm owners always caution owners about cleaning rod damage. For only a few extra dollars, you can add a muzzle guard and protect the muzzle crown from unnecessary damage. Muzzle guards also keep the cleaning rod centered, and they are usually composed of brass materials.
A bench block is used to help remove pins when taking down a firearm. While not a necessity, they are a nice to have as they help to keep your take-down pins from flying all over the place while you disassemble your firearm.
FIREARM CLEANING MAT
If you’re cleaning a firearm with many advanced parts to disassemble and reassemble, then a firearm mat can be a great investment. A quality firearm mat serves several purposes. It provides an ideal cleaning/work surface, it is non-slip so it keeps gun parts in place, and it can also be printed with a diagram of your chosen firearm so you have a guide to where every part fits. Firearm mats are also resistant to cleaning chemicals, and even if you don’t necessarily need the diagram, they are a good investment for firearm cleaning around the house. They also help protect your work surface.
There are many companies out there that create kits and parts for cleaning your firearm and there isn’t just one option. Personal preference tends to play a roll in what you choose to use and what brands you ultimately end up using. Below are a few inexpensive options if you are in the market for a starter kit.
All that is gold does not glitter,
Not all those who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost.
– J.R.R. Tokien
When most people think about hiking, places like Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, etc don’t really come to mind. Unfortunately, people will lose out to some of the wonders and hidden gems that await you in these locations. Not all hiking needs to happen in or around mountain ranges. Hiking the Midwest can turn out to be wonderful experience.
Here are some of my favorite locations (in no particular order):
- Devil’s Lake State Park – Wisconsin
- Starved Rock State Park – Illinois
- Wyalusing State Park – Wisconsin
- Mirror Lake State Park – Wisconsin
- Glacial Lakes State Park – Minnesota
- Arrowhead State Trail – Minnesota
- Black River State Trail – Wisconsin
They each have a wide range of offerings, from hiking, camping, ATV and Snowmobile use. The trails range from easy to intermediate. Devil’s Lake in particular allows you to climb rock formations from during the Ice Age. With naturally cut rocks and a lake with canoe and kayaking.
There are many more great locations and I highly recommend getting out there and trying some out yourself. Whether you decide to do a day trip or a weekend excursion, hiking is great exercise, a great way to get out and enjoy nature, and if your a photographer or just love taking photos for Instagram or a Blog, hiking can help you snap some amazing photos to share.
A couple things to remember if you decide to take the plunge and go hiking. Although many of these locations may not be as challenging or as risky as some of the larger mountain style hiking trails out west, you should always be prepared and up for the challenge. Don’t for get to pack the occasion. Here is my list of go-to items to always take on a hike.
What to Pack
- Backpack ( I like at least a 21L )
- Water Reservoir ( 2-3L )
- Water Bottle
- Sun Hat
- Snack Bars ( Ones that won’t melt )
- Safety Whistle
- First Aid Kit
- Packable Jacket
- Good Supportive Shoes or Boots
- Maps or GPS ( Not just your phone )
- Pocket Knife
- and if you are going to an area that may have territorial wildlife ( cougars / mountain lions ) a firearm is always advised.
The most important thing is to just get out there and have fun. If you find some good locations, midwest or not, feel free to comment on some of your favorite locations.
Carrying Concealed Q & A
I have gotten a lot of questions from people on both sides of the spectrum since I started carrying concealed. I am going to run through a few of those questions and answer from the perspective of someone who is non-military, non-law enforcement, and who is not required to carry for their job. Now, this article is not here to convince you to carry or even own a gun. This is purely here for those who are interested or would like to understand why some people choose to carry and also why they aren’t the ones people and/or the government should be worried about. These are in no particular order and hopefully, help to shed some light for those of you who may or may not be considering carrying.
Q: Does Carrying make you feel safer?
A: No. In fact, it makes me much more aware of all the dangers, not just from carrying, but from things like buildings with no exits and strategies to combat these fears. So a feeling of being safer doesn’t happen, but feeling prepared would be the proper adjective.
Q: Aren’t you afraid of accidentally shooting yourself?
A: No. Just like anything else, getting the proper training and always practicing safe handling of a firearm is a must.
Q: Is it uncomfortable to carry?
A: Sometimes. Using the bathroom is especially challenging when you carry.
Q: What gun would you recommend for concealed carry?
A: This is a loaded question and I will always answer as follows. The best gun for concealed carry is gun that you can shoot proficiently and are comfortable carrying daily. It will totally depend on your personal preference.
Q: Do you think you could pull the trigger and kill someone?
A: Honestly, this is always a tough question. I would like to say Yes, that I could do anything to protect my family, but I hope the day never comes I have to find out.
Q: What caliber is best for carrying?
A: Again, this comes back down to what you are the most proficient with and the most comfortable shooting with.
Q: Aren’t you afraid of being shot by the cops?
A: No. If you obey the law and don’t put yourself in a situation where this could occur there is nothing to worry about.
These are not all the questions I have been presented with and I am sure many of you get if you do carry; these are a majority of the ones I get from people when they first find out that I carry. I hope this helps and if you enjoyed the content, please drop a like / share and make sure you check us out on our other social pages.
Outdoor Edge Slidewinder Utility Knife / Multi-tool
The O.E. Knives or Outdoor Edge – Slidewinder is one hell of a workhorse. This little micro utility knife / multi-tool has been able to hold up to some of the roughest tests I could conjure up. Now, let me preface this by saying I did load this bad boy up with a serrated utility blade. The Slidewinder might be small, but is definitely mighty. I was looking for a small, flat, lightweight EDC option. Most of my knife uses end up being opening boxes, cutting para-cord, opening mail, and other daily basics. I decided to give this guy a test due to its low price and the fact that it had all the specs I was looking for. So lets get into the pros and cons after a two week test, followed by a rough use test. ( Links to both the Slidewinder & blades below )
For a slightly more in-depth review and a quick look at the knife and how it performs, check out our video. Video Review: https://youtu.be/cRhznf14g3I
- Very lightweight
- Has a bottle opener, Philips & Flathead screwdriver (along with the knife)
- Easy open & close
- Great clip
- Super thin
- Blade lock is lacking
- Part ABS plastic construction
- Philips head is 3 prong
Now don’t get me wrong, given the nature of what this tool will be used for the cons are not that big of a sticking point for me. The knife itself is not super expensive and with the serrated blades it cuts pretty much anything, while staying extremely sharp. For being such a small inexpensive little pocket utility tool, the Slidewinder is made its way to being my go-to EDC knife of choice.
Welcome to the New Foxfire Armory Website!
Never tell people how to do things.
Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity.
– George S. Patton
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